This potato salad recipe, layered with hen and greens, has its roots in Peru


Causa Limeña

Active time:1 hour, 25 minutes

Total time:1 hour, 35 minutes

Servings:6 to ten (makes one 9×9-inch layered salad)

Active time:1 hour, 25 minutes

Total time:1 hour, 35 minutes

Servings:6 to ten (makes one 9×9-inch layered salad)

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There’s no analogue for causa in American cooking. Part chilly casserole, section picnic-greatest-hits mash-up, the Peruvian dish is assembled like a trifle and resembles a Seventies congealed salad. To make causa Limeña, the dish’s vintage presentation, house chefs layer chile-and-lime-spiked potato puree, hen or tuna salad, avocado, tomato, and extra potato in a baking dish. The complete factor is chilled, unmolded and garnished with black olives and boiled eggs.

“Rich, middle-class and deficient households make it. We all consume causa,” says Diego Oka, chef of La Mar in Miami and a local of Lima.

Causa morphs when it leaves Peru. The nation’s starchy, dry yellow potatoes, named papa amarillo, are handiest bought frozen within the United States. Aji amarillo chiles, which lend causa its canary-yellow hue, also are not easy to return by means of contemporary, and the jarred paste that’s readily to be had in U.S. groceries is aggressively highly spiced and laced with citric acid.

But causa’s power (its genius!) lies in its adaptability. There are as many diversifications as there are chefs, budgets, ability ranges and events. In Peru and the United States, cooks tinker with causa’s shape, flavors, fillings and garnishes — and, within the procedure, give house chefs license to experiment.

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“There’s no flawed option to make causa,” says Carlos Delgado, a chef who grew up simply west of Lima in Callao and just lately named his D.C eating place after the dish.

Historians have connected the dish to the Quechua phrase “kawsay,” this means that “existence pressure” or “sustenance” and, in pre-Columbian occasions, can have referred to the fundamental mixture of potatoes and chiles. Over time, the potatoes picked up colonial influences and elements, and all over the 1879 War of the Pacific, patriotism were given layered in when girls fed infantrymen a humble potato dish “para l. a. causa,” or for the purpose. It’s additionally slang for “good friend” or “good friend.”

“Causa is reassuring, whether or not it’s the dish or the phrase. It’s filled with reminiscences. It additionally says, ‘You’re my good friend, and we wish to welcome you,’ ” Delgado says.

When causa moved from properties into eating places, cooks upgraded the presentation the usage of ring molds to collect vertical towers of potatoes, a kitschy glance that peaked within the Nineties. At Delgado’s eating place, the dish is a high-concept snack that’s a part of a multicourse tasting menu. At his extra informal eating place, Bar Amazonia, Delgado serves causa now not Limeña genre in layers, however open-faced and crowned with shrimp escabeche, a preparation extra commonplace in northern Peru.

Oka first recalls reconceptualizing causa in 2005, whilst operating for famous Peruvian chef Gastón Acurio at the opening menu of La Mar Lima. The staff settled on one-bite cylinders stuffed with avocado tartare and crowned with tuna tartare, crab and hen.

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By the time Oka opened La Mar Miami 9 years later, his causa had radically reworked. Oka piped swirls of magenta potatoes round king crab salad and decorated “les flors des papa,” as he dubbed the introduction, with dots of avocado crema and meticulously positioned salmon roe and flora. “It’s so subtle, so beautiful. But it’s additionally so easy — simply potatoes and a filling,” he says. “That’s why I really like this dish such a lot.”

Today, cooks freely exchange beets, saffron, jalapeño, pesto, spinach, squid ink and activated charcoal for standard aji amarillo. Peruvian chefs have additionally merged one of the vital nation’s most well liked dishes with causa. At Causita in Los Angeles, chef Ricardo Zarate makes use of causa as the bottom of Nikkei-style nigiri, as does Erik Ramirez at New York’s Llama San. There’s lomo saltado-topped causa and ceviche-filled causa. There’s additionally crammed and fried causa — papa rellena by means of some other identify.

Causa additionally expands past Peruvian eating places. At Señor Bear in Denver, chef Blake Edmunds makes changes for American diners, the usage of olive oil and butter in his potatoes and swapping huacatay, mint and cilantro for extra conventional parsley. He confits tuna and attire the fish with a mix of aioli, crema and aji amarillo. He completes the causa with a soft-boiled egg and shaved radishes.

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But probably the most conventional causa shines as a hot-weather centerpiece or potluck stunner. Home chefs can construct causa in a springform pan, a loaf pan or a casserole. You don’t must unmold it. You can shape bite-size causita by means of hand, or make appetizer parts in ring molds or muffin pans.

Oka nonetheless makes his mother’s model, full of probably the most elementary of hen salads, at house. To get as shut as imaginable to a real Peruvian causa within the States, Oka steams — by no means boils — his potatoes (he prefers Idaho, whilst Delgado swears by means of a 2-to-1 ratio of Yukon gold and Idaho) and passes them thru a ricer or meals mill prior to including vegetable oil, salt, lime and aji amarillo paste.

The high quality of jarred aji amarillo pastes can range extensively, however in the event you go for that, search for a non-spicy model (categorized “sin picante”). Oka prefers making his personal from contemporary or frozen chiles.

“In Peru, all peppers undergo the similar procedure,” says Oka. “We take out the veins and seeds, and boil them thrice to take out the spiciness. Then we make a paste.”

Once you’re assured in causa basics, get started taking part in. Use the chile maximum considerable to your lawn. Make hen, tuna, crab or shrimp salad the way you adore it. Go vegan with a beet, sunchoke or artichoke salad. Don’t restrict garnishes to olives and eggs; use seasonal greens and herbs to create whimsical gardenscapes, geometric patterns or eccentric grandma vibes.

“It all depends upon the one who’s making it and the place you’re,” Delgado says. “There’s no restrict to the creativity, or how one will have to move about it. That’s the wonderful thing about causa.”

In its maximum vintage shape, causa is a chilly, layered dish of lime- and aji amarillo-spiked potatoes, a mayonnaise-based salad (typically hen or tuna), avocado, tomato, black olives, and boiled eggs. In its house nation of Peru, there’s a model for each cook dinner, finances, ability stage and instance. Stateside, the make-ahead dish hits convenience notes for fanatics of potato salad and, particularly in summer time, has the substance and aptitude to anchor a cocktail party or shine at a potluck.

To upload some other layer of authenticity for your causa, search AlaCena-brand mayonnaise (it’s spiked with lime and MSG). Kewpie, which additionally incorporates MSG, even though no lime juice, is the following most suitable option. If you like, you’ll peel the potatoes prior to steaming or, to save lots of time, depart them of their skins even after steaming.

Storage: Refrigerate leftovers for as much as 3 days.

Make Ahead: Causa may also be assembled and chilled 8 hours upfront.

Where to Buy: Aji amarillo paste may also be discovered at Latin markets or on-line, however the high quality varies. Look for Zócalo- or Belmonte-brand jars categorized “sin picante,” or non-spicy. Even higher: Buy contemporary or frozen aji amarillo chiles and make your personal paste (see NOTE). AlaCena mayonnaise may also be discovered at Latin markets or on-line; Kewpie mayonnaise may also be discovered at Asian markets or on-line.

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  • 4 cups (1 1/2 kilos) cooked and shredded hen breast
  • 6 tablespoons mayonnaise, plus extra for drizzling, ideally AlaCena or Kewpie manufacturers (see headnote)
  • 7 1/2 tablespoons contemporary lime juice (from 4 to six limes)
  • 2 teaspoons superb salt, plus extra as wanted
  • 2 kilos Idaho potatoes, quartered
  • 6 tablespoons aji amarillo paste, ideally contemporary (see NOTES)
  • 6 tablespoons vegetable oil
  • 1 massive avocado
  • 1 massive tomato (6 to eight oz.), thinly sliced
  • 12 canned pitted black olives, for serving
  • 4 hard-cooked eggs, peeled and quartered or grated, for serving

In a big bowl, combine in combination the hen, mayonnaise and three tablespoons of lime juice till blended. Season frivolously with salt.

Add sufficient water to a big pot to return 1 inch up the edges. Set a big steamer basket within and position the potatoes within the basket. Set the pot over medium warmth, quilt and produce to a boil. Steam the potatoes till fork-tender, about 20 mins. Remove from the warmth and put aside till the potatoes are cool sufficient to take care of however are nonetheless heat. (If you prefer, you’ll peel the potatoes at this level, however that’s now not vital; see headnote.) Pass the nice and cozy potatoes thru a ricer or meals mill into a big bowl (don’t use the coarse facet of a field grater, as the feel will probably be too coarse). Add the aji amarillo paste, oil, 4 tablespoons of lime juice and the two teaspoons of salt and gently combine along with your hand or spoon, till homogenous and pliable however now not sticky or stiff.

Line a 9-inch sq. baking dish that’s a minimum of 2 inches deep with parchment paper or plastic wrap, letting the parchment overhang on both sides by means of about 2 inches.

Halve and pit the avocado, then, the usage of a big spoon, gently scoop out its flesh and thinly slice. Sprinkle the remainder 1 1/2 teaspoons of lime juice over the avocado slices to stop discoloration.

In a unmarried layer, upload a 3rd of the potato aggregate to the coated pan and unfold flippantly to hide all of the floor. Evenly unfold the hen aggregate on best. Top with some other 3rd of potatoes, adopted by means of the tomato and avocado slices, and a drizzle of mayonnaise. Finish with the remainder potatoes, quilt with plastic wrap and refrigerate for a minimum of 1 hour and as much as 8 hours.

Place a slicing board or platter on best of the pan and moderately turn over, unmolding the causa and peeling away the paper or plastic; you’ll additionally serve it directly from the dish. Garnish with the olives and eggs.

Per serving (1/2 cup), in response to 10

Calories: 396; Total Fat: 24 g; Saturated Fat: 4 g; Cholesterol: 200 mg; Sodium: 816 mg; Carbohydrates: 20 g; Dietary Fiber: 2 g; Sugar: 2 g; Protein: 25 g

This research is an estimate in response to to be had elements and this preparation. It will have to now not exchange for a dietitian’s or nutritionist’s recommendation.

Adapted by means of Caroline Hatchett from a recipe by means of chef Diego Oka of La Mar in Miami.

Tested by means of Hattie Ulan; e-mail inquiries to [email protected].

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